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Chain stitch on the brink: Srinagar artisan warns of craft’s slow death | KNO

Once a pride of Kashmir’s cultural heritage, this intricate embroidery is nearly non-existent, says Abdul Qayoom Wani

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Srinagar, Sep 20 (KNO): At 70, Abdul Qayoom Wani of Chattabal, Bagi Sunder Baala in Srinagar, sits bent over a stretched fabric, needle in hand, practising the centuries-old art of chain stitch embroidery. For more than 55 years, he has lived and breathed this intricate craft—a legacy he inherited from his late father, Mohammed Ramzan Wani. But today, his biggest fear is that he may be among the last of its true custodians. “I learnt this art from my father when I was a young boy, and since then I have dedicated my life to it. Over the years, at least 600 people have learnt this art from me,” Qayoom said while speaking to the news agency—Kashmir News Observer (KNO). Qayoom recalls the days when chain stitch was Kashmir’s calling card to the world. The carpets, wall hangings, and cushions adorned with fine embroidery were in high demand across international markets. “Earlier, this art ensured bread and butter for hundreds of families. Exporters would eagerly buy our work, and the craft had value,” he said. That golden period, however, has withered away. With shrinking markets and mass machine-made alternatives dominating demand, the art has lost its economic viability. “Now, most people who gave decades to this profession have abandoned it because they cannot sustain their families,” he lamented. Wani admitted that the government has made some attempts for revival through handicraft exhibitions, training centres, and small financial incentives. But he believes these initiatives are too little, too scattered. “Some steps have been taken, but much more needs to be done. Without serious and consistent support, this art form will vanish completely,” he warned. The artisan revealed that despite his artworks reaching “every corner of the world”, the present market is nearly non-existent. “The pieces we already have are not fetching anything, as there are no takers. This situation is heartbreaking,” he said. What troubles him most is the lack of interest among the youth. “The new generation hardly shows interest in chain stitch because they know it doesn’t provide a decent livelihood. Some youngsters do come to learn, but when we don’t have work for ourselves, what can we offer them?” he asked. Meanwhile, officials of the Kashmir Handicrafts and Handloom Department said efforts are ongoing. “We are working on wider marketing platforms, including e-commerce, to give artisans a direct link to global buyers. But it will take time,” said an official, adding that financial assistance schemes are being reviewed to cover more struggling artisans. For artisans like Wani, these assurances are too slow to materialise. “We aren’t being helped at any level. The craft is on the verge of extinction, and if the government doesn’t step in with meaningful initiatives, it will disappear forever,” he said. To him, chain stitch is not just a livelihood but a cultural responsibility passed down through generations. Yet as markets shrink, state support lags, and youth turn away, the fear grows stronger—that one day, the last threads of Kashmir’s chain stitch tradition will fall silent—(KNO)

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